Abruzzo Region, its Shores and the Unique Trabocchi Coast

The coast of Abruzzo is anything but monotonous: there are flat sandy beaches highly organized for tourists where is possible to rent beach umbrellas, deck chairs and have a bar/restaurant available all day and also part of the night. These beaches have bay watchers and life guards for safety issues. There is always some entertainment going on on these type of beaches: beach volley, live music, dance lessons, sport lessons. Fun is guarantee.
But if you prefer a quiet spot to relax listening to the placid waves of the Adriatic Sea, Abruzzo coast can offer solitary wild beaches where is possible to spend a laid back day, walking the dog or simply reading a book.
There are dramatic coastlines with high cliffs and pebbly beaches of unique beauty such as Punta Aderci, a suggestive Regional Nature Reserve established in 1998 and located in the town of Vasto. This part of the coast of Abruzzo is characterized by rock cliffs overlooking the sea. There are numerous species of marine life and the many bird species that nest in the reserve.
The Adriatic Sea has a water’s temperature that is very mild; in summer it reaches 28 degrees. It is possible to bath from the end of April to the beginning of October. Abruzzo offers one of the highest densities of blue flag beaches in Italy.
But what is very unique on the Adriatic shore is the Trabocchi coast, a UNESCO World Heritage-protected famous for its traditional wooden fishing structures – the Trabocchi.
The Trabocchi coast starts from Ortona and ends in Vasto. These 50 km of coast are characterized by the beautiful Trabocchi, original fishermen stilt huts used for fishing purposes. They are connected to the land by narrow boardwalks and have long arms, known as antennae, which support a large net that extends into the sea. Historically the trabocchi were used by fisherman to avoid deep waters and collect varieties like anchovies, sardines, sea bream and sea bass. Some of the trabocchi are a few centuries old and each was once the domain of individual fishing families.
Stretched out on the rocks, like some monster ready to spring on its prey, the trabocco, with its numerous machines, had a formidable aspect.
In his autobiographical novel “The Triumph of Death”, the Italian poet Gabriele D’Annunzio used those words to describe his fascination for the Trabocchi.
A large fishing net is lowered from the Trabocco down to the sea. The net is suspended by two nearly horizontal masts which look much like antennae. These antenne stretch out, suspended some meters above the sea and support the narrow-meshed net called trabocchetto (trap). The fishing net is left in the sea water for a certain time: half an hour or an hour.
When the fisherman lifts up the net there he finds his catch. In this way, the nets scoop up all manner of fish and shellfish.
Nowadays there are Trabocchi that offer a wonderful opportunity: to eat freshly caught fish there in the stilt hut.
These fishing machines, reinforced against the wrath of the sea, are offered to the visitor suggesting an experience of absolute protagonism among the rocks, breathing the smell of algae, thanks to one of the most original and poetic destinations of Abruzzo. The atmosphere is very romantic especially in the evening. The stilt hut is lighted up with dozens of bulbs, its floor gently moves following the rhythm of the waves, the moon shines on the sea.
No one hands you a menu at these pier restaurants. You just sit down and await the procession of whatever fishermen caught that morning. The fish is usually cooked in a very simple and traditional way, accompanied by local white wine, Pecorino or Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.
A dinner at the Trabocchi eating fresh fish and drinking excellent local wine costs 35,00 euro a person, the atmosphere is very romantic perfect for an unforgettable evening.
I recommend to book in advance your dinner, the space in a stilt hut is limited. I also suggest to get there a bit early to enjoy the sunset on the Adriatic Sea.
Below a picture of myself with some friends (three Italian friends, a French and a Spanish friend) enjoying a very pleasant evening at Trabocco Sasso della Cajana in Rocca San Giovanni. We had a menu consisting in three different starters, handmade pasta with fish, fried fish, several jars of white wine “vino della casa”, coffee, dessert and a local liquor called Genziana made from a radish and very very bitter. All that for just 35,00 euro per person.

Another day we went to the Trabocco Lu Cungarelle in Vasto. The location is just wonderful! In the middle of the sea, in a very quiet spot and with an amazing view. Vasto is well known for a dish called “Brodetto alla Vastese”, consisting in local fish and sea food cooked in fresh tomatoes sauce duly made and served in a terracotta pan. Obviously we had a wonderful Brodetto alla Vastese that day, with local Rose’ wine, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, coffee and dessert. The meal costed 35,00 euro each. The menu is set, either €35 or €50 depending on whether you have the second fish course or not. And here below other picture of a lunch I had with two friends at the trabocco Lu Cungarelle in Vasto.
The trabocchi experience is something to try if you visit Abruzzo during late Spring, Summer or early Autumn. A must if you are in Italy.